Finished Objects: Dual Colored Bag

So... this is the dual colored bag I made. Isn't it nice? I ended up totally re-working the pattern and now I can't remember exactly what I did. Oh well... such is life.
The main part of this bag was knitted around in a circle, holding two strands of yarn together (both DK weight). I think I used US 8 needles. It's a pretty fun project and doesn't take that long.
After I finished the main body, I separated out half the stitches and did a few rows of garter stitch with the size 6 needles. I then took the other half and made the flap in all stockinette stitch, decreasing every other row.
The strap was a lot of fun to do and actually went faster than I thought. I started with a crochet chain of how long I wanted it to be, using both colors. I then did half-double crochet along both sides of the original chain. After that, I switched to only black and did single crochet around the whole thing... and then I sewed the strap on a bit more firmly.
For me, the hardest part was working the buttonhole... well, that and figuring out how to sew the lining in, as I am not very good at sewing. What I am amazed about is that it actually worked and that it looks nice. This is also an incredibly fast knit, as I think I just about finished the entire thing in about a week and a half or so... and I don't knit fast or very often!
So there you have it. I should make one for me, as the bag I made myself is starting to not work right... but I didn't know what I was doing when I lined it really.

Norweigan Star Scarf - Modification

First of all, I don't claim any rights to the Norweigan Star Pattern. This pattern is based off of a generic pattern for a tube scarf and the Norweigan Star Earflap Hat pattern by Tiennie. Go check out her stuff 'cause it's really cool!

But what I wanted to do was to make a scarf for one of my friends to wear next winter, as winters here get pretty cold and those of us from down south aren't used to the snow...

This will be a nice project to work on because the majority of it is just stockinette stitch in the round.

Materials:

US circular size 8 needles
Worsted weight yarn in two colors (I am using black MC and light green CC)
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle for weaving in loose ends

Pattern Rating:

Advanced Beginner for Fair Isle work. Your basic tube scarf is very much a beginner's project.

Skills:

Knitting in the round
Fair Isle
Following a chart

Instructions:

Using the Old Norweigan CO method, CO 80 stitches in MC. Join in the round.
Rows 1-10: k80
Rows 11-25: Work the Norweigan star motif in both MC and CC. You should work five motifs around in the circle.
Main Panel: k80 in MC until scarf is about seven inches shorter than desired length.
Finish up with one round (10 rows) of the Norweigan star motif in MC and CC, then 15 additional rows in MC. Bind off in knit.
Use a tapestry needle to weave in loose ends and sew up top and bottom.
For a child's scarf, CO 64 stitches and work motif four times around on each end.

Well, there you have it! Hopefully this will be done in time for next winter!

Dual Colored Bag

This is a relatively simple bag that is a good size to carry schoolbooks. It's a lot of knitting, but almost all of it is stockinette stitch worked in the round. This project is good for a beginner, but it is also nice for a more advanced knitter because it is something that you can work on while watching a movie or working on something else.

Materials:

-US Size 8 circular needles
-US Size 7 circular needles (optional)
-Acrylic DK yarn in CC (I used light yellow)
-Acrylic Worsted weight yarn in MC (I used black)
-Stitch marker
-Crochet hook (size G or H) for handle
-Tapestry needle for weaving in loose ends
-Cloth for lining the inside of the bag

Gauge:

tbd

Pattern Difficulty:

Advanced Beginner

Skills:

-Knitting in the round
-Crocheting
-Basic Finishing

Instructions:

USING BOTH COLORS:
CO 100 stitches using whatever method you want. I used the Old Norweigan CO method. Leave a six-inch tail.
You will be knitting with both strands held together for the majority of the bag.
Insert stitch marker and join in the round.
Rows 1-70 (?): k100 or until bag is desired length.
If you want to make your bag shorter or longer, either subtract or add a few rows. The number of rows isn't critical and if you're off by a few, it's perfectly okay.
After the first 70 rows, you have the choice to switch down a needle size.
Row A: p100
Row B: k100
Repeat rows A-B twice, finishing with a row of A. Bind off loosely in knit.
Using your smaller needle, knit 50 stitches from the larger needle to the smaller one.
SMALL NEEDLE
Row A: p50
Row B: k50
Row C: p50
Bind off loosley in knit.
LARGE NEEDLE

Finishing:

HANDLE
Using the crochet hook with both colors of yarn, attatch at the start of the round near the top of the bag. Make a foundation chain that is the desired length of the bag strap. Fasten on the opposite side of the bag with a slip stitch.
Make a row of half-double stitches (one in each of the stitches in the foundation chain) all along your handle. Turn. Repeat the half-double stitches.
Switch to only your MC. Make a row of single stitches all along the outside of the handle. This should look like a border. Fasten with a slip stitch and cut a six-inch tail.
GENERAL
LINING

Disclaimer:

Feel free to use this pattern to make bags for yourself or for your friends.

Finished Objects, Round Two

Welcome to the second issue of Finished Objects. I'm your host, Amo Scribere and joining me today is Samu.

This was a mini-sock I made, using the same pattern as before. This time around, I worked a checkerboard pattern using Fair Isle technique. The checkers were two stitches by three rows. This made it a lot easier to count how many rows I'd done; instead of counting rows, I counted squares. Like the other mini-sock I made, the ribbing, heel and toe were all done in the main colour.
This one took me a little longer than the red and white one because of the added difficulty on the colorwork. I was also being considerably more lazy and it sat around for about three days waiting for me to finish the toe.
Pattern Rating: Advanced Intermediate. Between Fair Isle colourwork, working the short row heel and the Kitchener stitch, this isn't an easy project.
Samu Says: This sock is almost as large as I am... and Wedge tried to put it on her foot when it was finished! Our human couldn't help laughing at that. I don't really like socks very much, but if I was to have a sock, I would have this one... or another one that the human makes.

This was a pattern I wrote for a fairly small bag. You can find the pattern here. It's called Tiger's Little Bag of Oddities.
This was a fun piece to knit and it only took me a few good, long hours of knitting (over the span of two days). I especially enjoyed writing the pattern (I did that while I knitted it) and the decrease pattern is the same one I use for crown of the hats I make.
Skills: Knitting in the round, simple decreases, yarn over, Fair Isle technique (optional), braiding.
Pattern Rating: Somewhere between Advanced Beginner and Intermediate, depending on whether or not you choose to do the zig-zag stripes.
Samu Says: This bag was named after Tiger, our clownfish. He's blue and white, just like the bag and he has approximately the same stripey pattern. Even though I don't like bags, I like things the human makes and Tiger really likes the stripey bag. It's too small for any of us to fit into, though, which is probably a good thing. Except for Edmund, but he can fit almost anywhere he wants. He's miniscule!

This is Athena the Owl, featured in a ribbed scarf. She's a small owl, about six-seven inches tall. Like the striped bag I made, I wrote the pattern myself... while making her, which is always an interesting experience. She was a little harder to make, especially figuring out her beak and how to make her talons.
She was made with a combination of Caron Simply Soft Eco yarn (that's the dark grey that you see) and Red Heart. I stuffed her using mostly cotton stuffing, but also some extra yarn scraps and some pinto beans, just to weigh her down a little so she didn't fall over as easily.
Skills: Knitting in the round, increases and decreases, i-cord, duplicate stitch, simple color changes, finishing
Pattern Rating: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
Samu Says: I don't care how cute the owl is, but I still don't like her! I'm just glad Amo gave her away and decided not to keep her. Tiger told me that Athena is a character from Greek mythology and that's what the city of Athens is named after. That metropolis is located in Greece and it was originally started in BC. That's a really long time ago, even before Mr. Frodo was born!

Well, that just about wraps up this edition of Finished Objects. Tune in next time for more pictures and a surprise guest!

Back to Knitting!

So... I got my cast off yesterday (hoorah!), so now I am back to knitting. I found that I can knit stockinette in the round, so that is always a good thing. I started a basic beanie hat yesterday and I got quite a bit done on the bus ride. I just casted on 80 stitches and then did 5 rows of k1p1 ribbing, then stockinette stitch from there. I'm using worsted weight yarn (yay for wool/acrylic blend!) and US size 8 circular needles. These are probably my favorite needles in my collection.

And when I am done with my dual colored socks, I have totally awesome sock yarn to make more socks with! Last semester, I did a knitting exchange with one of my friends (I made her a bag and a whole bunch of other stuff) and I got awesome yarn in return. I will have to be posting pictures when I get my camera hooked up to my computer. And I shall have to post pictures of the finished items.

Unfortunately, I can't work on the cabled hat or the cabled scarf I am making. Cabling and Fair Isle both require too much coordination, so I shall have to wait on those. Fortunately, I have plenty of knitting to keep me busy until then! So I am in a good mood. I will be working on the plain beanie and also working on a dual colored bag (pretty simple and knitted in the round). I will post a pattern for that when I am done with it.

But that is what I have been doing the past few days. Other than school and other life stuff, of course.

Long Time, No Post

So... if you hadn't noticed, I haven't been writing in here. But I also haven't been knitting very much, save for a garter stitch scarf that I have to unravel every few rows. Hopefully I will get my cast off soon so that I can actually knit because there are a bunch of projects I'd like to work on/finish.

1. My socks! I am almost to the toe of the first one.
2. Cabled hat I've been working on for a friend. It's a difficult pattern and I may have to rip it out and start over.
3. My cabled scarf. Another complicated and difficult pattern.
4. Another little bag. I can knit one up in a day or two. I'd also like to make up an alternate pattern.
5. Finishing the Veritas Fair Isle bag!

And I think that's pretty much it. But first I have to wait for my arm to stop hurting. And to get the cast off my wrist because until I do, I won't be knitting anything but silly garter stitch scarves. Le sigh.

Hiatus

Well, I managed to fracture my wrist last weekend, so no knitting for me for awhile. Unfortunately, I was working on a hat, a scarf, a pair of socks and a number of other projects, so this is all very disappointing. Oh well. Now you know where I am and why I haven't been uploading pictures and completing projects.

Sharpe's Purple Cabled Scarf

Materials:

• Caron Simply Soft Eco (Violet Plum): 2 skeins
• US Size 7 Straight Needles (or whatever you need to obtain gauge)
• 2 Stitch Markers
• Cable Needle
• Tapestry Needle to Weave in Loose Ends

Gauge:

TBD

Pattern Difficulty:

Intermediate for intricate cabling

Pattern Abbreviations:

C4B: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in back. K2 from regular needle, then K2 from CN.
C4F: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in front. K2 from regular needle, then K2 from CN.
C3BP: Slip 1 stitch to CN and hold in back. K2 from regular needle, then P1 from CN.
C3FP: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in front. P1 from regular needle, then K2 from CN.
C4BP: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in back. K2, then P2 from CN.
C4FP: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in front. P2, then K2 from CN.
C2B: Slip 1 stitch to CN and hold in back. K1, then K1 from CN.
C2F: Slip 1 stitch to CN and hold in front. K1, then K1 from CN.

Beginning Ribbing:

CO 54 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): [p2, k2] repeat to end, k2
Row 2 (WS): [k2, p2] repeat to end, k2
Row 3: p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 1.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2 (changes are made in bold)
Row 8: Repeat row 1.
Repeat rows 1-8 once, making a total of sixteen rows. End with row 8.

Main Body:

Row 1 (RS): p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, p2, c4b, p4, c4b, p4, c4b, p2, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2
Row 2 (WS): k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1,pm, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 3: p2, c2f, p2, k2, c4f, k2, p1, pm, p1, c3bp, c4fp, c4bp, c4fp, c4bp, c3fp, p1, pm, p1, k2, c4b, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 4: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 5: p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, c3bp, p3, c4f, p4, c4f, p3, c3fp, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2
Row 6: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 7: p2, c2b, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k2, p1, pm, k2, p3, c3bp, c4fp, c4bp, c3fp, p3, k2, pm, p1, k2, p2, k2, c4f, p2, c2f, p2
Row 8: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k3, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k3, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 9: p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, k2. p3, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p3, k2, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2
Row 10: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k3, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k3, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 11: p2, c2f, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k2, p1, pm, k2, p3, c3fp, c4bp, c4fp, c3bp, p3, k2, pm, p1, k2, p2, c4b, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 12: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 13: p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, c3fp, p3, c4f, p4, c4f, p3, c3bp, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2
Row 14: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 15: p2, c2b, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k2, p1, pm, p1, c3fp, c4bp, c4fp, c4bp, c4fp, c3bp, p1. pm, p1, k2, p1, k2, c4f, p2, c2f, p2
Row 16: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Repeat until scarf is desired length (about 58-60 inches), ending with Row 1.

Ending Ribbing:

Row 1 (WS): [k2, p2] repeat to end, k2
Row 2 (RS): p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 3: Repeat row 1.
Row 4: [p2, k2] repeat to end, k2
Row 5: Repeat row 1.
Row 6: p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2 (changes are made in bold)
Row 7: Repeat row 1.
Row 8: Repeat row 2.
Bind off loosely (but firmly) in pattern.

Pattern Credits:

Center Panel: Saxon Braid (pp 139-141) from Pawlowski, Jackie. Field Guide to Knitting: How to Identify, Select and Work Virtually Every Stitch. Philadelphia: Quirk Books. 2007.

Please don't redistribute this work, but feel free to make a scarf for yourself or your friends. If you knit this pattern, please link back. Thank you!

Sockses!!!

Probably the most stereotypical thing for any knitter to knit is a pair of socks. In my opinion, it is also one of the hardest projects to take on... something not worthy for a beginner by any stretch of the imagination. I've been knitting for over a year now (and six months fairly seriously) and I've already learned techniques like Fair Isle, cabling and how to make my own pattern. So, I realized that it was probably time to move onto bigger and better things, like socks.

I got myself a book about how to make socks back in August or September. It's called Getting Started Knitting Socks by Ann Budd. It goes step-by-step how to make your most basic sock, with lots of pictures showing the more difficult parts, like how to work the heel and gusset and how to do the Kitchener stitch. It also shows different methods of casting on (that's where I learned the Old Norweigan CO method, which I now use for almost all my projects!), has stitch patterns that make good ribbing (regular, cabled and lace) and has some good sock patterns for a more experienced sock knitter. Basic ways of working in the round are also covered. If anyone wants to learn how to knit socks, this is a book I highly recommend.

Now that I've finally gotten at least somewhat comfortable with reading another person's pattern and that I've gotten half-way decent at the basics of knitting in the round, decreasing and working the Kitchener stitch (which I can do if I have the book open!), I have decided to make myself a pair of socks. Just plain socks, because I'm not that adventurous.

Part of this is selfish of me, as I have heard that hand-knit socks are particularly comfortable.

Materials Used:

Cascade 220 Yarn in Dark Grey (CC) and Dark Green (MC)
US Size 4 dpns
Stitch marker(s)
Tapestry needle for weaving in loose ends

Pattern Used:

Basic Sock Pattern for Worsted Weight Yarn (p 58-59)

Pattern Rating:

Between Intermediate and Advanced. If it was truly Advanced, then I would be working some complex ribbing pattern or colorwork other than basic color changes at the easiest points possible.

Additional Notes on the Pattern:

I worked 12 rows of ribbing in CC, then 1 row of stockinette stitch in CC before switching to the MC.
The heel flap and toe were also worked in CC, while the leg and the foot were worked in MC.
I used a k1, p1 ribbing pattern.

Progress:

2/7/09: I have worked about six inches of the leg of the first sock, including the ribbing. I'm about 3/4 of the way through with that part.
2/12: I have worked the rest of the leg and the heel flap and the heel. I just picked up the stitches along the side of the heel flap and I am now decreasing and working on the main part of the foot. It is going well.

I will be updating my progress throughout this project and hopefully it will go better than my last attempt.

Knitting Reflection

~look back and see...

...how far you've come...

...and you'll realize it's been...

...a lot further than you think~

So, I have known how to knit for about a year and a half now and I thought it was time to see how far I've come since I first started.

My first ever project was a garter stitch blanket for my sister, about the size of half of a regular bed pillow. A friend taught me how to cast on (using the e-wrap method) and do your basic knit stitch, but nothing else. I didn't know how to bind off properly... or even at all. I ended up just tying the stitches together. After that, I learned how to bind off properly. My next projects were garter stitch scarves. Just as simple. This time, I learned how to bind off correctly.

For awhile, I stopped knitting. I tried my hand at crocheting, which didn't work all that well. Over the summer, I started knitting again. I made Izzy the yarn snake for my sister. Pretty soon, I made a lined bag for a friend. This bag was mostly stockinette stitch, but it had stripes. On one side, there was a picture embroidered in duplicate stitch and the handle was cabled (just your simple c6f twisting every 8th row cable pattern). But still, I was quite proud of myself for that.

Soon, I moved onto bigger and better things. A few hats with simple colorwork... the first time I made the hat, I didn't mean to do the colors the way I did, but I ended up using Fair Isle technique, though I didn't know what I was doing. Miniature socks, toys, a coffee mug cozy for myself... But the most involved project to date has been the bag I made for my sister. Not only did it involve Fair Isle technique, but also charting a basic motif, assembly and crocheting.

One of the things I have been most pleased about is my ability to write patterns. I'm not good at it yet, but I have come to the point where I am currently working on two patterns of my own (Delaney the Amigurumi Squid and the Veritas Fair Isle bag) and I have finished two patterns (Athena the Owl and Tiger's Little Bag of Oddities) and performed test knits on each, not withstanding the seed stitch dishcloths or the scarf I made for Athena, which is your basic p2k2 ribbed scarf in an appropriate size for a stuffed animal. I was told by a friend who knits that my patterns are logical.

Sometimes it doesn't seem like you've come very far until you take a step back and look at the big picture.

Tiger's Little Bag of Oddities

This bag was designed after and named for Tiger, the blue and white stuffed clownfish.


Materials:

Red Heart Supersavers Yarn (Royal Blue and White)
US Size 4 or 5 dpns
Crochet Hook (optional)
Stitch marker
Lining for inside of bag (optional)

Pattern Rating:

For Fair Isle Stripes: Intermediate
For Basic Stripes (Alternate pattern): Advanced Beginner

Skills:

Knitting in the round
Fair Isle coloring (optional)
Basic Finishing techniques

Gauge:

5 stitches and 6 rows = 1 inch in Stockinette Stitch, but non-critical. Just make sure you're at least somewhat close.

Instructions:

Using the Old Norweigan CO method, CO 48 stitches with the MC and divide evenly onto your dpns. If you use the e-wrap cast on, knit one foundation row.
Join in the round, careful not to twist your stitches. Place your stitch marker here.
Rows 1-3: k48
Row 4: change to CC. k48
Row 5: [yo, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row 6: k48
We will now attach the MC back to the bag, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Row 7: [k1 in MC, k1 in CC]. Repeat to end
Row 8: Using MC only (do NOT cut the CC), [k5, k1fb]. Repeat to end (56 sts)
Row 9-10: k56 in MC
Row 11: [k1 in CC, k1 in MC]. Repeat to end
Row 12-13: k56 in CC
Row 14: Repeat Row 7
Rows 15-17: k56 in MC
Row 18: Repeat row 11
Rows 19-20: k56 in CC
Repeat rows 14-20 three times, ending with 2 rows of k56 in CC. You should have four repeats total. Leave a 6-inch tail on the CC and cut.
We will now begin our decrease rows...
Row A: In MC, [k6, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row B: k49
Row C: [k5, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row D: k42
Row E: [k4, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row F: k35
Row G: [k3, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row H: k28
Row I: [k2, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row J: k21
Row K: [k1, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row L: k14
Row M: [k2tog]. Repeat to end
Cut an 8-inch tail and thread through remaining seven stitches. Tie and weave in loose ends.

Alternate Stripe Instructions:

This is for those of you who either don't know how to do Fair Isle technique or don't want to...
Starting with Row 7.
Row 7: k48 in MC
Row 8: [k5, k1fb] in MC. Repeat to end. (56 sts)
Rows 9-10: k56 in MC
Rows 11-13: k56 in CC
Repeat Rows 9-13 four times, ending with knitting 2 rows in CC. Cut a six-inch tail.
Work the alphabet decrease pattern in the same manner as above.

Drawstring:

Make a 4-stringed braid 18-20 inches long, using 2 strands each of MC and CC. Weave through drawstring holes.

Feel free to use this to make little bags for yourself and your friends. Please do not sell items based on this pattern or publish it on your site. If you use this pattern, please credit by linking. Thank you!

Dual Colored Mini-Scarf

Since a lot of the stuffed animals I own possess some wierd affinity or love for scarves, I decided to write up a pattern for a stuffed animal scarf. Athena the Owl was the stuffed animal I had in mind when determining the size for this piece, but it can be made larger or smaller, depending on what you want.

Materials

US Size 3 or 4 needles (You can use either straights, circulars or dpns. I used dpns for this because there were few enough stitches not to worry about the stitches slipping off the ends.)
Worsted weight yarn in two colors (MC and CC)
Tapestry thread to sew in loose ends

Skills

Knitting and purling
Basic color changes through stripes

Pattern Rating

Beginner

Instructions

CO 10 stitches.
Odd Rows: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 (10 sts)
Even Rows: p2, k2, p2, k2, p2 (10 sts)
Rows 1-6: done in MC
Rows 6-12: done in CC
Rows 13-18: MC
Rows 19-24: CC
Repeat until you have 7 blocks of each color. (14 blocks total, 84 rows)
On your eighth block, work five rows of pattern. On the sixth row, BO in pattern (knit the knits and purl the purls.
Using a tapestry needle, weave in the loose ends.

Enjoy!

Athena the Owl

Owl Amigurumi Time!


Materials:

Caron Simply Soft Yarn (Worsted Weight). Any Color. I used Dark Grey.
US Size 3 or 4 double pointed needles
Buttons or Safety eyes... or bits of yarn in a different color to sew eyes on
Small bits of worsted weight yarn in a different color for the beak and talons.
Stuffing
Tapestry needle for weaving in loose ends
4.0 mm crochet hook

Skills:

Working in the round with increases and decreases
I-cord
Basic finishing techniques

Pattern Rating:

Advanced Beginner or Intermediate

Gauge:

Not important for this project. Just make sure that your stitches are tight enough so that the stuffing doesn't show through.

Body:

CO 6 stitches using the Old Norweigan CO method. Leave a 4-inch tail. Divide evenly amongst needles. Join in the round, careful not to twist stitches.
Row 1: k6
Row 2: [k1fb]. Repeat to end (12 sts)
Row 3: k12
Row 4: [k1fb]. Repeat to end (24 sts)
Row 5: k24
Row 6: [k1, k1fb]. Repeat to end (36 sts)
Row 7: k36
Row 8: [k1, k1fb]. Repeat to end (56 sts)
Row 9-25: k54
Row 26: [k1, k2tog]. Repeat to end of row, finishing with k2. (38 sts)
Row 27: [k2tog]. Repeat to end (19 sts)
Row 28: k2tog, k 17 (18 sts)
Stuff before continuing.
Row 29: k18
Row 30: [k2, k1fb]. Repeat to end (24 sts)
Row 31: k24
Row 32: [k3, k1fb]. Repeat to end (30 sts)
Row 33: k30
Row 34: [k4, k1fb]. Repeat to end (36 sts)
Row 35-42: k36
Now would be a most excellent time to embroider your owl's eye on or sew buttons on for eyes, if that is what you have chosen.
You will also want to make and sew on your owl's beak at this time. Sew it on centered between the eyes around row 35 or 36.
Row 43: [k4, k2tog]. Repeat to end (30 sts)
Row 44: k30
Row 45: [k1, k2tog]. Repeat to end (20 sts)
Row 46: [k2tog]. Repeat to end (10 sts)
Row 47: k10
At this point, finish stuffing your owl.
Row 48: [k2tog]. Repeat to end (5 sts)
Cut a 6-inch tail and thread through the remaining stitches. Pull tight and weave in loose ends.

Beak:

Top of beak: Using the Old Norweigan CO method, CO 4 stitches with yellow yarn.
Row 1: k4
Row 2: s1, k2tog, s1
Row 3: k3
Row 4: k2tog, k1
Row 5: k2
Row 6: k2tog. Pull through loose end.
Bottom: Using the Old Norweigan CO method, CO3 stitches with yellow yarn.
Row 1: k3
Row 2: k2tog, k1
Row 3: k2
Row 4: k2tog. Pull through loose end.

Wings:

Make two.
Using the Old Norweigan CO method, CO 10 stitches, leaving an 8-inch tail.
Rows 1-4: k10
Row 5: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (8 sts)
Rows 6-9: k8
Row 10: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1 (6 sts)
Rows 11-14: k6
Row 15: k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1 (4 sts)
Rows 16-19: k4
Row 20: k1, k2tog, k1 (3 sts)
Rows 21-23: k3
Row 24: Bind off in knit.

Talons:

Make two.
We are going to start by picking up three stitches along the bottom of the owl. With the yellow yarn...
Row 1: k3
Rows 2-6: k3, as if it was an I-cord.
Row 7: Bind off as an I-cord, leaving one stitch on the needle.
Taking your crochet hook, make a chain of 5 stitches long. Pull through and cut tail.
Cut a 10-inch long piece of yarn and thread through the bottom of the I-cord so that 5 inches is on either side.
Make crochet chains of 5 stitches long. Pull tail through.
Weave in loose ends.

Tail:

CO 13 stitches.
Row 1: [k1, p1]. Repeat to end. k1
Row 2: [p1, k1]. Repeat to end. p1
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Row 5: Repeat Row 1.
Row 6: k2tog, [p1, k1] repeat until there are 3 stitches left. p1, k2tog (11 sts)
Row 7: Repeat Row 2.
Row 8: Repeat Row 1.
Row 9: Repeat Row 6 (9 sts).
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Row 11: Repeat Row 1.
Row 12: Repeat Row 6 (7 sts)
Row 13: Bind off in pattern (p1, k1).
Cut an 8-inch tail.

Finishing up:

Sew on the wings and tail, finish weaving in any loose ends and give your owl a name!

Feel free to enjoy this pattern for your own use, but please don't sell anything you've made using this pattern.

Easy Scarf for Charity

Easy Scarf Instructions

A scarf is a good first project for any knitter. Your garter stitch scarf is probably the most basic project that you can work. Depending on the style and color of the yarn, the number of stitches cast on and the size of needles used, one garter stitch scarf can look drastically different than another.

This project is ideal for a first knitting project and it's a good project for a more experienced knitter to knit while watching movies. Plus, scarves make good gifts... and they're good items to donate to charities. ^_^

Materials:
Caron Simply Soft in color of preference or other suitable worsted weight yarn
US Size 8 Straight needles

Gauge:
Non-critical

Directions:
Using Old Norweigan CO method, CO 40 stitches.
All rows: Knit
BO loosely in knit and weave in loose ends.

Nota Bene:
When casting on 40 stitches, my scarf ended up about nine inches wide. For a narrower scarf, cast on fewer stitches (maybe 30).

Fluffy Beanie Hat

Materials:

US Size 8 circular needles (or whatever fits your gauge) and/or dpns of the same size
Bulky weight yarn (I use LionBrand Homespun for this project)
Stitch marker
Ruler (optional)

Skills:

Knitting in the round
Working basic ribbing
Simple decreases

Pattern Rating:

Advanced Beginner

Gauge:

I'll get a note of this up as soon as I check my own gauge. I do knit more loosely than most patterns call for, so I tend to go down a needle size. If you knit tighter, you'll probably want to use a size 10.

Instructions:

Using the Old Norweigan CO method, CO 63 stitches.
Rows 1-4: [k2, p1]. Repeat to end.
Rows 5 until the hat measures about 6 inches: k all stitches.
For now, I'll start numbering the decrease and bind off rows alphabetically instead of numerically...
Row A: [k7, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row B: k all stitches
Row C: [k6, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row D: k all stitches
Row E: [k5, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row F: k all stitches
Row G: [k4, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row H: k all stitches
Row I: [k3, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row J: k all stitches
Row K: [k2, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row L: [k1, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row M: [k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Cut an 8-inch tail and thread through all stitches, pulling firmly. Weave in loose ends.

Enjoy!

Finished Objects: Pictures!!!

Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome to the first episode of Finished Objects. I'm Amo Scribere and I will be your host today as we take a look at a few wonderfully knitted items. So, without further adieu...

To start us off, we have a mini-sock. Unfortunately, I can't remember what I did with the link to the pattern for this particular piece (but it's free and online), but this wasn't too difficult to make. This is the third one I've done and I decided to vary around the coloring a bit to see how it would look.
Again, this was done with Red Heart stash yarn... this time in burgandy and white. I actually made this one for a Christmas gift exchange and stuffed candies in it. I wanted to make more for people, but I didn't have the time this year.
This is a great project for getting rid of the extra bits of yarn you have lying around!
The sock didn't take me that long to knit, but parts of it were tricky. It can easily be done in a weekend or in an afternoon if you're more experienced or a quick knitter.
Skills: Knitting (and purling) in the round, working a sock heel, simple color changes (for this pattern), joining at a gusset, decreases, Kitchener stitch, crochet chain (optional).
Pattern Rating: ntermediate. Definitely not a first project! Between working the heel and the Kitchener stitch (which isn't bad if you have good instructions), this would be an easy project for a semi-experienced sock knitter, but not necessarily something you'd want to try just after learning to knit.

Next in line, we have an amigurumi bee! This is from the pattern over at ChristineLandry.com for a Bumble Cat Toy. The only major edit I made was that I didn't put catnip in it.
I used worsted weight Red Heart yarn that I happened to have lying around in my stash and I used bits of yarn and cloth to stuff the inside because I didn't have any real stuffing.
Most of the knitting for this project took me about an afternoon to complete, so it's definitely a quick knit.
Skills necessary (and you can follow the link to the pattern) are knitting on dpns in a round, making an I-cord (unless you just want the bee) and increasing and decreasing in the round and simple sewing and finishing techniques.
Pattern Rating: Intermediate Beginner. This probably isn't ideal for your first project, but it's a quick knit that can be done over the weekend, even if you aren't very fast (like me) and it doesn't require a huge amount of skills.


This is a bag I made for my sister for Christmas. It was based off of another Fair Isle bag, and chart only I made some interesting modifications. I re-charted the centerpiece of the shield and applied her initials. I do like how it turned out, especially since this was my first attempt at charting something for a knitting project. I also had fun working the strap, which was done in a half-double crochet. The back of the bag has solid checkermarks instead of the shield motif.
This ended up taking a very long time to finish and sadly, I didn't have it done by Christmas. It's just a lot of knitting and it took longer than I expected it to.
I used mostly materials that were either in my stash (Red Heart yarn) or lying around the house. For example, I lined the inside of the bag with an old t-shirt that had been washed. It is quite durable, which is always a plus!
Skills: Fair Isle knitting techniques, knitting in the round, basic crocheting, assembly...
Pattern Rating: Intermediate. For a Fair Isle pattern, this one was pretty simple, but it takes awhile to get the hang of handling two pieces of yarn at once. Plus, you also have the crocheting and the sewing...

Lastly, I'd like to show you something I made for myself! This is a coffee mug cozy made with Cascade 22o. Yay for luxury yarns! Okay, not really, but I kind of consider anything that's your run of the mill scratchy acrylic to be "luxury". For wool, Cascade 220 is very soft, too! And it's fairly inexpensive. The best of both worlds, I suppose...
This was made from a slight adaptation of the POISON! Coffee Cozy pattern over at Carissa Knits. Instead of using size 10 needles (I don't have any size 10 dpns), I used size 8s and cast on five more stitches, allowing one extra grey stitch between each of the motifs. I also knit a little bit more loosely than most people do, I've found, so that helped. Also, instead of using red and black, I used dark green and light grey, which are two of my favorite colors (along with purple and black!).
I actually finished this in about five to six hours of knitting, so it was a fast project for me. But doesn't it look cute on my coffee mug?
Skills: Fair Isle knitting, ability to follow a chart and that's about it.
Pattern Rating: Beginning Intermediate. The most tricky part for me was trying to work with dpns on a Fair Isle project (on the bag, I used circulars), so it was just a lot of things to keep track of where they were and what they were supposed to be doing.

Well, ladies and gentlemen, that does it for this edition of Finished Objects. Join us next time for another new episode where we will be showing off a wine cozy and a few other surprises!

Amigurumi Squid (WIP)

Since I cannot crochet anything without making a horrible knotted mess of things and I want to make a stuffed squid (I'm wierd like that), I decided to adapt this pattern for knitting. I'll be updating this entry with the complete pattern once it's written, but here's what I have so far...

This is the first time I've adapted such a pattern, so things may or may not run smoothly. Hopefully everything will work out, though.


Materials:

Worsted weight yarn
Stuffing
US Size 2 or 3 needles (something to make your stitches tight)
Buttons or second color contrasting yarn to embroider eyes
Tapestry needle
Stitch marker (optional, but very helpful!)

Abbreviations:

CO = cast on
k = knit
p = purl
s = slip stitch knit-wise
k2tog = knit two stitches together
k1fb = knit one into the front and back of each stitch (increases by 1 stitch)
sts = stitches
BO = bind off

Gauge:

Gauge isn't critical for this project. Just be sure that when you knit, your stitches are tight enough so that no stuffing shows through or can fall out.

Fins:

Make Two. Done in Garter Stitch
CO 7 stitches (I used the Old Norweigan cast on, but any cast on method is fine.)
Row 1-2: k7
Row 3: s1, k2tog, k to end
Row 4: k6
Row 5: s1, k2tog, k to end
Row 6: k5
Row 7: s1, k2tog, k to end
Row 8: k4
Row 9: s1, k2tog, k to end
Row 10: k3
Row 11: s1, k2tog, k to end
Row 12: k2
Row 13: k2tog
You now have one stitch. Pull thread through and leave about a ten-inch tail.

Body:

CO 4 stitches
Knit as I-cord: Row 1: k1fb all stitches. You now have 8 stitches total.
Divide evenly onto 3 needles and join. Be careful not to twist your stitches. The rest of this will be worked in the round.
Row 2-3: k8
Row 4: [k1, k1fb] x 4 (12 sts)
Row 5-6: k12
Row 7: [k3, k1fb] x 3 (15 sts)
Row 8: k15
Row 9: [k4, k1fb] x 3 (18 sts)
Row 10: k18
Row 11: [k5, k1fb] x 3 (21 sts)
Row 12: k21
Row 13: [k6, k1fb] x 3 (24 sts)
Row 14: k24
Row 15: [k7, k1fb] x 3 (27 sts)
Row 16-35: k27 or as long as desired.
BO in knit.
Sew on button eyes or apply duplicate stitch to make eyes according to the chart (which will be uploaded later).

Tentacles:

Make two.
CO 8 stitches on straight needles (you can also use 2 dpns)
Row 1: k7, turn
Row 2: k to end, turn
Row 3: k6, turn
Row 4: k to end, turn
Row 5: k5, turn
Row 6: k to end, turn
Row 7: k4, turn
Row 8: k to end, turn
Row 9: k3, turn
Row 10: k to end, turn
Row 11: k2, turn
Row 12: k to end, turn
Row 13: k1, turn
Row 14: k to end, turn
Row 15: k8
Row 16: s1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, s1 (6 stitches left)
Row 17: k6
Row 18: s1, k1, k2tog, k1, s1 (5 sts)
Row 19-20: k5
Row 21: k2tog, k1, k2tog (3 sts)
Knit as I-cord:
Row 22: k3
Row 23: k1, k1fb, k1 (4 sts)
Row 24: k4
Row 25: [k1, k1fb] x 2 (6 sts)
Row 26: k6
Row 27: [k2, k1fb] x 2 (8 sts)
Change to dpns and join in the round.
Row 28-??: k8
BO in knit.

We will also be making the bottom of the body and eight arms. More on that to come later.


Credits:

Original Pattern Idea: Amigurumi Squid from Crochet Me
Adapted Tentacles: Bumble Cat Toy (the wings)
Bottom of Body Adapted From: Knitting a Flat Circle at Knit Me! Amigurumi!

Seed Stitch Washcloths

Seed Stitch Washcloths:

This is a simple pattern that you can alter as needed.

Materials:

Red Heart Supersaver Yarn (two colors)
Size US 6 straight needles
4.0 mm crochet hook

Pattern Rating:

Beginner

Gauge:

Very non-critical for this project. Just cast on an odd number of stitches. You can vary the size of needles to achieve a looser effect on the stitches.

Instructions:

CO 35 stitches using the Old Norweigan CO method.
All rows: [k1, p1] repeat to end, k1.
Once your knitted piece is a square, BO in knit.
Sew in loose ends.
For the crocheted edges, take your second color, start in one of the corners and apply a half-double crochet stitch in each of the stitches over all ends.
For the corners, do two half-double crochet stitches in each corner knit stitch.
Finish with a slip stitch and cut a tail. Sew in the loose ends.

Alternate Instructions:

If you don't know how to do the Old Norweigan CO and you don't want to learn, cast on using any method you'd like. Change your bind off method to binding off in pattern (knit the knits and purl the purls).

Helpful Links:

Old Norweigan Cast On method
Half Double Crochet

And now you'll have a washcloth! You can make these out of any worsted weight yarn that's washable (otherwise that defeats the purpose of a washcloth, doesn't it?)...