Well, I managed to fracture my wrist last weekend, so no knitting for me for awhile. Unfortunately, I was working on a hat, a scarf, a pair of socks and a number of other projects, so this is all very disappointing. Oh well. Now you know where I am and why I haven't been uploading pictures and completing projects.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Monday, February 9, 2009
Sharpe's Purple Cabled Scarf
Materials:
- Caron Simply Soft Eco (Violet Plum): 2 skeins
- US Size 7 Straight Needles (or whatever you need to obtain gauge)
- 2 Stitch Markers
- Cable Needle
- Tapestry Needle to Weave in Loose Ends
Gauge:
TBDPattern Difficulty:
Intermediate for intricate cablingPattern Abbreviations:
C4B: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in back. K2 from regular needle, then K2 from CN.Beginning Ribbing:
C4F: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in front. K2 from regular needle, then K2 from CN.
C3BP: Slip 1 stitch to CN and hold in back. K2 from regular needle, then P1 from CN.
C3FP: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in front. P1 from regular needle, then K2 from CN.
C4BP: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in back. K2, then P2 from CN.
C4FP: Slip 2 stitches to CN and hold in front. P2, then K2 from CN.
C2B: Slip 1 stitch to CN and hold in back. K1, then K1 from CN.
C2F: Slip 1 stitch to CN and hold in front. K1, then K1 from CN.
CO 54 stitches.Main Body:
Row 1 (RS): [p2, k2] repeat to end, k2
Row 2 (WS): [k2, p2] repeat to end, k2
Row 3: p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 1.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2 (changes are made in bold)
Row 8: Repeat row 1.
Repeat rows 1-8 once, making a total of sixteen rows. End with row 8.
Row 1 (RS): p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, p2, c4b, p4, c4b, p4, c4b, p2, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2Ending Ribbing:
Row 2 (WS): k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1,pm, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 3: p2, c2f, p2, k2, c4f, k2, p1, pm, p1, c3bp, c4fp, c4bp, c4fp, c4bp, c3fp, p1, pm, p1, k2, c4b, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 4: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 5: p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, c3bp, p3, c4f, p4, c4f, p3, c3fp, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2
Row 6: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 7: p2, c2b, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k2, p1, pm, k2, p3, c3bp, c4fp, c4bp, c3fp, p3, k2, pm, p1, k2, p2, k2, c4f, p2, c2f, p2
Row 8: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k3, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k3, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 9: p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, k2. p3, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p3, k2, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2
Row 10: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k3, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k3, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 11: p2, c2f, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k2, p1, pm, k2, p3, c3fp, c4bp, c4fp, c3bp, p3, k2, pm, p1, k2, p2, c4b, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 12: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, p2, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 13: p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, pm, c3fp, p3, c4f, p4, c4f, p3, c3bp, pm, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p2
Row 14: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k1, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Row 15: p2, c2b, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k2, p1, pm, p1, c3fp, c4bp, c4fp, c4bp, c4fp, c3bp, p1. pm, p1, k2, p1, k2, c4f, p2, c2f, p2
Row 16: k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k1, pm, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k2, pm, k1, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2
Repeat until scarf is desired length (about 58-60 inches), ending with Row 1.
Row 1 (WS): [k2, p2] repeat to end, k2Pattern Credits:
Row 2 (RS): p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2
Row 3: Repeat row 1.
Row 4: [p2, k2] repeat to end, k2
Row 5: Repeat row 1.
Row 6: p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2b, p2, c2f, p2, c2b, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, c2f, p2 (changes are made in bold)
Row 7: Repeat row 1.
Row 8: Repeat row 2.
Bind off loosely (but firmly) in pattern.
Center Panel: Saxon Braid (pp 139-141) from Pawlowski, Jackie. Field Guide to Knitting: How to Identify, Select and Work Virtually Every Stitch. Philadelphia: Quirk Books. 2007.Please don't redistribute this work, but feel free to make a scarf for yourself or your friends. If you knit this pattern, please link back. Thank you!
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Sockses!!!
Probably the most stereotypical thing for any knitter to knit is a pair of socks. In my opinion, it is also one of the hardest projects to take on... something not worthy for a beginner by any stretch of the imagination. I've been knitting for over a year now (and six months fairly seriously) and I've already learned techniques like Fair Isle, cabling and how to make my own pattern. So, I realized that it was probably time to move onto bigger and better things, like socks.
I got myself a book about how to make socks back in August or September. It's called Getting Started Knitting Socks by Ann Budd. It goes step-by-step how to make your most basic sock, with lots of pictures showing the more difficult parts, like how to work the heel and gusset and how to do the Kitchener stitch. It also shows different methods of casting on (that's where I learned the Old Norweigan CO method, which I now use for almost all my projects!), has stitch patterns that make good ribbing (regular, cabled and lace) and has some good sock patterns for a more experienced sock knitter. Basic ways of working in the round are also covered. If anyone wants to learn how to knit socks, this is a book I highly recommend.
Now that I've finally gotten at least somewhat comfortable with reading another person's pattern and that I've gotten half-way decent at the basics of knitting in the round, decreasing and working the Kitchener stitch (which I can do if I have the book open!), I have decided to make myself a pair of socks. Just plain socks, because I'm not that adventurous.
Part of this is selfish of me, as I have heard that hand-knit socks are particularly comfortable.
Materials Used:
I got myself a book about how to make socks back in August or September. It's called Getting Started Knitting Socks by Ann Budd. It goes step-by-step how to make your most basic sock, with lots of pictures showing the more difficult parts, like how to work the heel and gusset and how to do the Kitchener stitch. It also shows different methods of casting on (that's where I learned the Old Norweigan CO method, which I now use for almost all my projects!), has stitch patterns that make good ribbing (regular, cabled and lace) and has some good sock patterns for a more experienced sock knitter. Basic ways of working in the round are also covered. If anyone wants to learn how to knit socks, this is a book I highly recommend.
Now that I've finally gotten at least somewhat comfortable with reading another person's pattern and that I've gotten half-way decent at the basics of knitting in the round, decreasing and working the Kitchener stitch (which I can do if I have the book open!), I have decided to make myself a pair of socks. Just plain socks, because I'm not that adventurous.
Part of this is selfish of me, as I have heard that hand-knit socks are particularly comfortable.
Materials Used:
Cascade 220 Yarn in Dark Grey (CC) and Dark Green (MC)Pattern Used:
US Size 4 dpns
Stitch marker(s)
Tapestry needle for weaving in loose ends
Basic Sock Pattern for Worsted Weight Yarn (p 58-59)Pattern Rating:
Between Intermediate and Advanced. If it was truly Advanced, then I would be working some complex ribbing pattern or colorwork other than basic color changes at the easiest points possible.Additional Notes on the Pattern:
I worked 12 rows of ribbing in CC, then 1 row of stockinette stitch in CC before switching to the MC.Progress:
The heel flap and toe were also worked in CC, while the leg and the foot were worked in MC.
I used a k1, p1 ribbing pattern.
2/7/09: I have worked about six inches of the leg of the first sock, including the ribbing. I'm about 3/4 of the way through with that part.I will be updating my progress throughout this project and hopefully it will go better than my last attempt.
2/12: I have worked the rest of the leg and the heel flap and the heel. I just picked up the stitches along the side of the heel flap and I am now decreasing and working on the main part of the foot. It is going well.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Knitting Reflection
~look back and see...
...how far you've come...
...and you'll realize it's been...
...a lot further than you think~
So, I have known how to knit for about a year and a half now and I thought it was time to see how far I've come since I first started.
My first ever project was a garter stitch blanket for my sister, about the size of half of a regular bed pillow. A friend taught me how to cast on (using the e-wrap method) and do your basic knit stitch, but nothing else. I didn't know how to bind off properly... or even at all. I ended up just tying the stitches together. After that, I learned how to bind off properly. My next projects were garter stitch scarves. Just as simple. This time, I learned how to bind off correctly.
For awhile, I stopped knitting. I tried my hand at crocheting, which didn't work all that well. Over the summer, I started knitting again. I made Izzy the yarn snake for my sister. Pretty soon, I made a lined bag for a friend. This bag was mostly stockinette stitch, but it had stripes. On one side, there was a picture embroidered in duplicate stitch and the handle was cabled (just your simple c6f twisting every 8th row cable pattern). But still, I was quite proud of myself for that.
Soon, I moved onto bigger and better things. A few hats with simple colorwork... the first time I made the hat, I didn't mean to do the colors the way I did, but I ended up using Fair Isle technique, though I didn't know what I was doing. Miniature socks, toys, a coffee mug cozy for myself... But the most involved project to date has been the bag I made for my sister. Not only did it involve Fair Isle technique, but also charting a basic motif, assembly and crocheting.
One of the things I have been most pleased about is my ability to write patterns. I'm not good at it yet, but I have come to the point where I am currently working on two patterns of my own (Delaney the Amigurumi Squid and the Veritas Fair Isle bag) and I have finished two patterns (Athena the Owl and Tiger's Little Bag of Oddities) and performed test knits on each, not withstanding the seed stitch dishcloths or the scarf I made for Athena, which is your basic p2k2 ribbed scarf in an appropriate size for a stuffed animal. I was told by a friend who knits that my patterns are logical.
Sometimes it doesn't seem like you've come very far until you take a step back and look at the big picture.
My first ever project was a garter stitch blanket for my sister, about the size of half of a regular bed pillow. A friend taught me how to cast on (using the e-wrap method) and do your basic knit stitch, but nothing else. I didn't know how to bind off properly... or even at all. I ended up just tying the stitches together. After that, I learned how to bind off properly. My next projects were garter stitch scarves. Just as simple. This time, I learned how to bind off correctly.
For awhile, I stopped knitting. I tried my hand at crocheting, which didn't work all that well. Over the summer, I started knitting again. I made Izzy the yarn snake for my sister. Pretty soon, I made a lined bag for a friend. This bag was mostly stockinette stitch, but it had stripes. On one side, there was a picture embroidered in duplicate stitch and the handle was cabled (just your simple c6f twisting every 8th row cable pattern). But still, I was quite proud of myself for that.
Soon, I moved onto bigger and better things. A few hats with simple colorwork... the first time I made the hat, I didn't mean to do the colors the way I did, but I ended up using Fair Isle technique, though I didn't know what I was doing. Miniature socks, toys, a coffee mug cozy for myself... But the most involved project to date has been the bag I made for my sister. Not only did it involve Fair Isle technique, but also charting a basic motif, assembly and crocheting.
One of the things I have been most pleased about is my ability to write patterns. I'm not good at it yet, but I have come to the point where I am currently working on two patterns of my own (Delaney the Amigurumi Squid and the Veritas Fair Isle bag) and I have finished two patterns (Athena the Owl and Tiger's Little Bag of Oddities) and performed test knits on each, not withstanding the seed stitch dishcloths or the scarf I made for Athena, which is your basic p2k2 ribbed scarf in an appropriate size for a stuffed animal. I was told by a friend who knits that my patterns are logical.
Sometimes it doesn't seem like you've come very far until you take a step back and look at the big picture.
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Tiger's Little Bag of Oddities
This bag was designed after and named for Tiger, the blue and white stuffed clownfish.
Materials:
Feel free to use this to make little bags for yourself and your friends. Please do not sell items based on this pattern or publish it on your site. If you use this pattern, please credit by linking. Thank you!
Materials:
Red Heart Supersavers Yarn (Royal Blue and White)Pattern Rating:
US Size 4 or 5 dpns
Crochet Hook (optional)
Stitch marker
Lining for inside of bag (optional)
For Fair Isle Stripes: IntermediateSkills:
For Basic Stripes (Alternate pattern): Advanced Beginner
Knitting in the roundGauge:
Fair Isle coloring (optional)
Basic Finishing techniques
Instructions:5 stitches and 6 rows = 1 inch in Stockinette Stitch, but non-critical. Just make sure you're at least somewhat close.
Using the Old Norweigan CO method, CO 48 stitches with the MC and divide evenly onto your dpns. If you use the e-wrap cast on, knit one foundation row.Alternate Stripe Instructions:
Join in the round, careful not to twist your stitches. Place your stitch marker here.
Rows 1-3: k48
Row 4: change to CC. k48
Row 5: [yo, k2tog]. Repeat to end.
Row 6: k48
We will now attach the MC back to the bag, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Row 7: [k1 in MC, k1 in CC]. Repeat to end
Row 8: Using MC only (do NOT cut the CC), [k5, k1fb]. Repeat to end (56 sts)
Row 9-10: k56 in MC
Row 11: [k1 in CC, k1 in MC]. Repeat to end
Row 12-13: k56 in CC
Row 14: Repeat Row 7
Rows 15-17: k56 in MC
Row 18: Repeat row 11
Rows 19-20: k56 in CC
Repeat rows 14-20 three times, ending with 2 rows of k56 in CC. You should have four repeats total. Leave a 6-inch tail on the CC and cut.
We will now begin our decrease rows...
Row A: In MC, [k6, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row B: k49
Row C: [k5, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row D: k42
Row E: [k4, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row F: k35
Row G: [k3, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row H: k28
Row I: [k2, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row J: k21
Row K: [k1, k2tog]. Repeat to end
Row L: k14
Row M: [k2tog]. Repeat to end
Cut an 8-inch tail and thread through remaining seven stitches. Tie and weave in loose ends.
This is for those of you who either don't know how to do Fair Isle technique or don't want to...Drawstring:
Starting with Row 7.
Row 7: k48 in MC
Row 8: [k5, k1fb] in MC. Repeat to end. (56 sts)
Rows 9-10: k56 in MC
Rows 11-13: k56 in CC
Repeat Rows 9-13 four times, ending with knitting 2 rows in CC. Cut a six-inch tail.
Work the alphabet decrease pattern in the same manner as above.
Make a 4-stringed braid 18-20 inches long, using 2 strands each of MC and CC. Weave through drawstring holes.
Feel free to use this to make little bags for yourself and your friends. Please do not sell items based on this pattern or publish it on your site. If you use this pattern, please credit by linking. Thank you!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
